As one drives through the trimmed roads of Rawalpindi; the capital’s twin city, the gleaming lights, aroma of the frizzling chapli and seekh kebabs, and the buzzing crowd magnetize the senses. The city roads are trimmed by dhabas or khokas (makeshift shops), rehris (pushcarts) and small hotels. For a common Pakistani theyare a source of wide-ranging scrumptious desi food. Ranging from qulfi, paratha roll, dahi baray and jalebi to mouth-watering full meals like nehari and paaye; it is hard to classify what street food really is.
Despite Pakistan’s unstable economic and security conditions, the trend of eating out does not seem to lessen. The culture of eating out is not only a major source of delectable food but also facilitates people to sit together and talk their hearts out. Regardless of the unappealing ambiance, people from all walks of life are enthralled by the unique flavor of street vended food because it is affordable and convenient. Nevertheless, road side eating is not just a trend but an important part of our popular culture.
But with the growing number of diverse street side food sellers, their lack of understanding of critical food safety issues, people’s unawareness about health risks and negligence on part of the concerned local authorities have made street side food eating a public health concern.
According to Dr Farzana Shafqat, a gastroenterologist at Shifa International Hospital Islamabad, contaminated food causes diseases like typhoid, hepatitis, diarrhea and various infections including food poisoning. “Up to 20 percent patients visiting the hospital come with complaints because of eating out”.
Unhygienic conditions and food handling coupled with cheap low quality ingredients cause these health problems. According to Moti Khan, a nutritionist at Aga Khan Hospital Karachi, most of the food sellers at such places keep their food uncovered, reuse water to wash utensils, and have inappropriate storage and cooking method. “They use substandard oil and impure color, herbs and spices that have sand and chemicals added to them which increase health risks”.
The Shifa News International (SNI) team visited Murree Road, one of the busiest roads in Rawalpindi, to observe the condition of street side food sellers. It was noticed that majority food sellers prepare and sell food in inappropriate conditions. Some cook food at their open stalls that are exposed to dust, smoke, flies and other insects. Those who sell home-cooked food prepare it overnight, which is then kept at ambient temperature and reheated till sold. Prepared foods are likely to putrefy if not kept in appropriate temperature especially during summers. “Storing food for long periods and reheating it over and again causes bacteria to develop”, explains Moti.
Some food stalls were even located near open gutters and others next to puddles filled with rain water and mud. Due to lack of facilities for waste disposal many food vendors dump the waste in nearby gutters and streets which become breeding places for flies and rats. A cook of a restaurant (name kept confidential) when inquired about the uncovered bowl of chutney remained mum and busy with his work. He was least bothered about the flies bustling over it. Also, a nearby vendor was seen cutting vegetables that were uncovered and exposed to flies. A number of food vendors when asked where they buy the meat from gave vague answers.
Another frying parathas on a full-sized pan was asked about the oil he used. “I have no idea which oil it is. It is just oil”, said the middle aged man. He confessed reusing the same oil but could not remember how many times it was reused. The kitchen of the same restaurant, whose name is also kept confidential, was not properly lit and the cleanliness of the cooking utensils was not satisfactory. The purity of water used for drinking, washing utensils and cooking was also doubtful. Due to scarcity of water at several places, some food vendors were seen re-using the water for washing utensils. “Contaminated water is the most common cause of diarrhea”, says Dr Farzana.
There is a legal framework that expresses certain provisions for those involved in food production, storage, distribution, and consumption etc. All provinces have adopted The Pure Food Ordinance, 1960, with certain amendments, to ensure public health and safety. The law regulates production and sale of food and ensures purity of food being supplied. But who is following the law and where are the law enforcers?
Town Municipal Administration is the authority responsible for such issues. According to Dr Ansar Ishaq, District Health Officer (DHO) of Rawal Town Rawalpindi food stalls and restaurant’s are regularly visited to ensure food safety. “Food inspectors collect food samples, issue and cancel licenses and charge fine. All those involved in food handling and selling are medically checked and it is ensured that they do not have any communicable disease. The premises are also visited before issuing the license”.
Well, the reality is a bit different. Anwar, a food vendor on Murree Road working for the past 16 years told SNI he has “never gone through any medical checkup”. According to him the inspection team visits twice or thrice in a year. “I once forgot to renew my license and they charged me fine worth Rs30, 000. I did not pay it. If you have a reference you can be exempted that is not a problem”.
Another food seller, Aziz, on the other hand said the inspection team visits every week. The condition of the hotel however negated his claim. The washing area was filthy and the oil was being re-used for frying. The food vendors said they had heard inspectors charging fine but not cancelling licenses.
The local authorities responsible for ensuring food and health safety of the public perhaps need to revisit the food safety legislation. Monitoring of the food inspectors’ is not satisfactory.
Apart from the carelessness of the food vendors and the local authority a major dilemma is the careless attitude of people towards the cleanliness of the food they eat. Many people are aware about things going around yet seem to ignore and neglect the fact that contaminated food is a serious threat to their health and wellbeing.
Sajjad, a frequent visitor of a specific restaurant in Rawal Town is aware that “unhygienic food can lead to food poisoning”. He was not even sure whether he is satisfied with the quality of food. Yet he often stops over at the restaurant. Unlike Sajjad, many other visitors had no clue how it can affect their health.
It is not possible to completely stop eating out. But Dr Farzana suggests becoming choosy when doing so. “Avoid eating things like salad and chutney. The least you can do is prefer well-cooked foods”.
Informed people can help effective enforcement of laws especially in the matters directly affecting their health. The food safety legislation clearly states that the public has all the rights to monitor the implementation of food safety laws, register complaints regarding “false warranty, misbranded foods, and incomplete labeling”. Moreover, public can request information concerning consumer safety from the concerned government department. It is just that people need to be made aware of their rights. Media can indeed play a vital role in educating people.
The point to think over is what is it that makes us take such hasty decisions about the food we eat. Why are we ready to put the most precious thing we have, our health, at stake? Is it carelessness or unawareness? The answer is both!
aishamumtaz 